Hair treatment agent containing selected fatty acid amides and selected hydroxycarboxylic acids

ABSTRACT

Hair treatment agents include a synergistic combination of selected fatty acid amides and further selected hydroxycarboxylic acids.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention generally relates to hair treatment agents thatinclude fatty acid amides.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

There is a continuing competitive requirement to bring aboutimprovements in hair care products and to provide them with additionaladvantageous properties. In particular, there is a competitive need toprovide a conditioning complex that can ideally also be used inconjunction with oxidizing agents and surfactant agents.

Environmental influences and oxidative hair treatments often lead toimpaired combability of both dry and wet hair. Furthermore, gloss andmoisture balance are deleteriously affected by the attacked externalstructure of the keratinic fibers. A further consequence of repeatedtreatment of keratinic fibers with surfactant and/or oxidative agents isa return of severe greasiness to the keratinic fibers and a strongtendency towards increased dandruff formation.

It is therefore desirable to reduce the side-effects of environmentalinfluences and of oxidative and surfactant hair treatments preferablynot only as early as during the oxidative or surfactant hair treatmentbut also after the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment withoutimpairing the effectiveness of the oxidative or surfactant cosmeticpreparation, in particular with regard to color intensity, colorfastness, lightening performance or permanent-wave action, and ofpreventing the keratinic fibers from becoming greasy again and increaseddandruff formation. It is also desirable to combine in one applicationstep, in the form of a 2-in-1 product, the oxidative treatment ofkeratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, with theapplication of effective fiber protection from environmental influences,for example UV protection.

Fatty acid amides are chemical compounds which are known in principleand are likewise already used as ingredients in hair care products.Hydroxycarboxylic acids are likewise known in hair treatment agents.They are often used for establishing the required pH. These knowncompositions are, however, incapable of satisfactorily accomplishing theabove objectives and solving the problems set forth above.

Desirable features and characteristics of the present invention willbecome apparent from the subsequent detailed description of theinvention and the appended claims, taken in conjunction with theaccompanying drawings and this background of the invention.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

A hair treatment agent including, relative to the weight thereof, a)0.01 to 15 wt. % of a fatty acid amide according to formula (I)

in which R¹, R² and R³ mutually independently denote a linear branchedor unbranched C₆ to C₃₀, preferably C₈ to C₂₄, more preferably C₁₂ toC₂₂ and highly preferably C₁₂ to C₁₈ alkyl or alkenyl group, whereinfurthermore preferably R² equals R³ and highly preferably R¹ equals R²equals R³, and n and m mutually independently denote integers from 1 to10, preferably 2 to 6 and highly preferably 2, 3 and/or 4, whereinhighly preferably n=m; and b) 0.01 to 15.0 wt. % of at least onehydroxycarboxylic acid. Where an active substance complex is mentionedbelow, this phrase refers to the ingredients a) and b) which aremandatorily present in the hair treatment agents according to theinvention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The following detailed description of the invention is merely exemplaryin nature and is not intended to limit the invention or the applicationand uses of the invention. Furthermore, there is no intention to bebound by any theory presented in the preceding background of theinvention or the following detailed description of the invention.

The active substance complex according to the invention improvessoftening, improves gloss, improves moisture balance and providesprotection from destructuring of keratin-containing fibers, inparticular human hair, by UV radiation and very particularly it providesprotection from oxidative damage, in particular it maintains hairgrowth, prevents hair loss and prevents the keratinic fibers frombecoming greasy again and increases the washing resistance of dyedkeratinic fibers. The present invention accordingly firstly provides ahair treatment agent including, relative to the weight thereof,

-   a) 0.01 to 15 wt. % relative to the total composition of at least    one fatty acid amide according to formula (I)

-   -   in which R¹, R² and R³ mutually independently denote a linear        branched or unbranched C₆ to C₃₀, preferably C₈ to C₂₄, more        preferably C₁₂ to C₂₂ and highly preferably C₁₂ to C₁₈ alkyl or        alkenyl group, wherein furthermore preferably R² equals R³ and        highly preferably R¹ equals R² equals R³, and n and m mutually        independently denote integers from 1 to 10, preferably 2 to 6        and highly preferably 2, 3 and/or 4, wherein highly preferably        n=m, and

-   b) 0.01 to 15.0 wt. % of at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agentsserve to treat keratinic fibers, in particular human hair. Preferredagents according to the invention are therefore for example shampoos,hair coloring agents, conditioning agents or hair tonics.

Handle is defined as the tactile properties of a fiber assembly, whereina person skilled in the art feels and carries out a sensory evaluationof the body and silkiness of the assembly.

Shaping is taken to mean the ability to impart a change in shape to anassembly of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particularhuman hair. In relation to hair cosmetics, it is also known asstylability.

Maintaining natural growth of keratinic fibers is taken to mean that theimpact on natural hair growth caused by cosmetic treatment of the hairas mentioned above, in particular by oxidative hair treatment, iscompensated and no or at most slight effects on the natural growth ofthe keratinic fibers with regard to growth in thickness or length and/orwith regard to fullness of the hair are present.

An oxidative hair treatment is defined according to the invention as theaction of an oxidative cosmetic agent including at least one oxidizingagent in a cosmetic carrier on the hair.

The hair treatment agent including the active substance complexaccording to the invention is preferably used immediately before, duringor after oxidative or surfactant hair treatment. For the purposes of theinvention, immediately before the oxidative or surfactant hair treatmentis taken to mean use directly followed by the oxidative or surfactanthair treatment, wherein the hair treatment agent including the activesubstance complex according to the invention has previously been rinsedoff the hair or preferably left on the hair and the hair is preferablystill wet.

For the purposes of the invention, after oxidative or surfactant hairtreatment is taken to mean use which either directly follows theoxidative or surfactant hair treatment, wherein the hair treatment agentincluding the active substance complex according to the invention isapplied onto the preferably still wet, towel-dry hair once the agentwith an oxidative or surfactant action has been rinsed off, or onto thedry or wet hair once a number of hours or days have elapsed. In bothcases, after a period of exposure of a few seconds up to 45 minutes, thehair treatment agent according to the invention may be rinsed off againor remain in its entirety on the hair.

The effect of the hair treatment agent according to the invention ismanifested even during oxidative or surfactant hair treatment andsurprisingly persists even after the hair treatment agent according tothe invention has been thoroughly washed out.

The active substance complex according to the invention is preferablyused in a cosmetic carrier. The cosmetic carriers may in particular beaqueous or aqueous-alcoholic. An aqueous cosmetic carrier includes atleast 50 wt. % water. For the purposes of the present invention,aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers should be taken to be aqueoussolutions including 3 to 70 wt. % of a C₁-C₆ alcohol, in particularmethanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol,tert.-butanol, n-pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, iso-hexanols,glycol, glycerol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol or1,6-hexanediol. The agents according to the invention may additionallyinclude further organic solvents, such as for example methoxybutanol,benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Anywater-soluble organic solvents are here preferred.

Component a) of the active substance complex according to the inventionis a fatty acid amide of general formula (I)

in which R¹, R² and R³ mutually independently denote a linear branchedor unbranched C₆ to C₃₀, preferably C₈ to C₂₄, more preferably C₁₂ toC₂₂ and highly preferably C₁₂ to C₁₈ alkyl or alkenyl group. R¹ to R³preferably denote capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl,myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl.Furthermore, more preferably R² equals R³ and highly preferably R¹equals R² equals R³. The letters n and m mutually independently denoteintegers from 1 to 10, preferably 2 to 6 and highly preferably for 2, 3and/or 4, wherein highly preferably n=m. Highly preferably, R¹ equals R²equals R³ and is selected from capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl,lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl, behenyl orarachidyl and n=m=2. Most preferably R¹=R²=R³ and is selected fromlauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl, behenyl orarachidyl, of which cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl or behenyl aremore preferred and n=m=2. The most preferred compound of formula (I) isthat having the INCI name Bis-Ethyl(isostearylimidazoline)Isostearamide.The latter compound is commercially obtainable from Croda under thetrade name Keradyn® HH.

The hair treatment agents according to the invention include the fattyacid amides according to the invention preferably in a quantity of 0.01to 15.0 wt. %, more preferably of 0.1 to 10.0 wt. %, particularlypreferably of 0.1 to 7.5 wt. %, highly preferably of 0.3 to 5.0 wt. %,in each case relative to the weight of the ready-to-use hair treatmentagent.

A second essential ingredient b) in the hair treatment agents is ahydroxycarboxylic acid. Hydroxycarboxylic acids are carboxylic acidswhich comprise both at least one carboxy group and at least a hydroxylgroup per molecule. In particular, hydroxycarboxylic acids include both“AHA” acids and β-hydroxycarboxylic acids. Another name for such hydroxyacids is fruit acid because the acids frequently occur in fruit. Thehydroxycarboxylic acid according to the invention is in particularselected from glycolic acid, lactic acid, glyceric acid, malic acid,citric acid, isocitric acid, mandelic acid, tartronic acid, tartaricacid, vanillic acid, salicylic acid, mevalonic acid, β-hydroxybutyricacid, gallic acid or protocatechuic acid. The hydroxycarboxylic acid ismore preferably selected from glycolic acid, lactic acid, glyceric acid,malic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, tartaric acid, vanillic acid andsalicylic acid. The hydroxycarboxylic acid is particularly preferablyselected from glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid,mandelic acid, tartaric acid and vanillic acid. The hydroxycarboxylicacid is highly preferably selected from malic acid, mandelic acid,tartaric acid and vanillic acid. Mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acidsmay, of course, also be used.

The compositions according to the invention include thehydroxycarboxylic acids in a total quantity of 0.01 to 15.0 wt. %, inparticular of 0.01 to 10.0 wt. %, preferably of 0.1 to 7.5 wt. % andhighly preferably in a quantity of 0.1 to 5.0 wt % in each case relativeto the entire composition.

In a more preferred embodiment of the present invention, furtherselected quaternary ammonium compounds are preferably used with themandatory ingredients already described above.

Quaternary ammonium compounds are in principle monomeric cationic oramphoteric ammonium compounds, monomeric amines, aminoamides, polymericcationic ammonium compounds and polymeric amphoteric ammonium compounds.Among the numerous possible quaternary ammonium compounds, the followinggroups have proven particularly suitable and are in each caseindividually used in a quantity of 0.1 to 15.0 wt. %. Neither more norless than this quantity is used even if a mixture of different compoundsof quaternary ammonium compounds is used. Cationic surfactants offormula (Tkat1) form the first group of cationic surfactants.

In the formula (Tkat1), R¹, R², R³ and R⁴ in each case mutuallyindependently denote hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzylgroup, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl residue with a chainlength of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which may optionally be substituted withone or more hydroxyl groups. A denotes a physiologically acceptableanion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide andmethosulfates.

Examples of compounds of formula (Tkat1) are lauryltrimethylammoniumchloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyldimethylammoniumchloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammoniumchloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride,lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammoniumchloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammoniummethosulfate.

Esterquats according to formula (Tkat2) form a preferred group.

The residues R¹, R² and R³ are here in each case mutually independentand may be identical or different. The residues R¹, R² and R³ mean:

-   -   a branched or unbranched alkyl residue with 1 to 4 carbon atoms        which may include at least one hydroxyl group, or    -   a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic        saturated or unsaturated alkyl residue with 6 to 30 carbon atoms        which may include at least one hydroxyl group, or    -   an aryl or alkaryl residue, for example phenyl or benzyl,    -   the residue (—X—R⁴), providing that at most 2 of the residues        R¹, R² or R³ may denote this residue.

The residue —(X—R⁴) is present at least once to 3 times. X here denotes:

-   1) —(CH₂)_(n)— with n=1 to 20, preferably n=1 to 10 and more    preferably n=1-5, or-   2) —(CH₂—CHR⁵—O)_(n)— with n=1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, more    preferably 1 to 50, and more preferably 1 to 20 with R⁵ meaning    hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,-   3) a hydroxyalkyl group with one to four carbon atoms which may be    branched or unbranched and which includes at least one and at most 3    hydroxyl groups. Examples are: —CH₂OH, —CH₂CH₂OH, —CHOHCHOH,    —CH₂CHOHCH₃, —CH(CH₂OH)₂, —COH(CH₂OH)₂, —CH₂CHOHCH₂OH, —CH₂CH₂CH₂OH    and hydroxybutyl residues,    and R⁴ denotes:-   1) R⁶—O—CO—, in which R⁶ is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or    unbranched or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl residue with 6    to 30 carbon atoms which may include at least one hydroxyl group and    which may optionally furthermore be ethoxylated with 1 to 100    ethylene oxide units and/or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units, or-   2) R⁷—CO—, in which R⁷ is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or    unbranched or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl residue with 6    to 30 carbon atoms which may include at least one hydroxyl group and    which may optionally furthermore be ethoxylated with 1 to 100    ethylene oxide units and/or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units,    and A denotes a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic    anion and is defined at this point as being representative for all    the structures also described below. The anion of all the described    cationic compounds is selected from the halide ions, fluoride,    chloride, bromide or iodide, sulfates of general formula RSO₃ ⁻, in    which R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl residues    with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic residues of organic acids such    as maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or    acetate.

Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Rewoquat®,Stepantex®, Dehyquart®, Arrnocare® and Akypoquat®. The productsArmocare® VGH-70, Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® C-4046, Dehyquart® L80,Dehyquart® F-30, Dehyquart® AU-35, Rewoquat® WE18, Rewoquat® WE38 DPG,Stepantex® VS 90 and Akypoquat® 131 are examples of these esterquats.

Further compounds of formula (Tkat2) which are more preferred accordingto the invention belong to formula (Tkat2.1), the cationic betaineesters.

The meaning of R⁸ corresponds to that of R⁷.

More preferred esterquats are those with the trade names Armocare®VGH-70, and Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® L80, Stepantex® VS 90 andAkypoquat® 131.

In preferred agents according to the invention, cationic surfactants offormula (bI) are used within relatively narrow quantity ranges, suchthat preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention arecharacterized in that they include 0.1 to 15 wt. %, preferably 0.5 to 10wt. %, further preferably 1 to 10 wt. %, still more preferably 1.5 to 10wt. % and in particular 2 to 5 wt. % of at least one compound of generalformula (I),

in which

-   n and m mutually independently denote integers between 5 and 40,    providing that n+m≧38; more preferably n=m; highly preferably    n=m=20.-   a and b mutually independently denote integers between 1 and 10; in    particular mutually independently denote 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5, the    equation a+2≧b≧a−2 preferably applies and highly preferably a=b=3.-   R and R′ are mutually independently selected from —H and —CH₃;    preferably R=R′, such that either PEG or PPG diesterquats are used;    particularly preferably R=R′=—CH₃,-   X⁻ is a physiologically acceptable anion, a halide such as chloride,    bromide or iodide, toluenesulfonate, methosulfate etc., and more    preferably methosulfate.

In particular when one of the compounds of formula (I) as previouslydescribed is used, it has been found that the conditioning effects ofthe agents according to the invention can be further increased and inparticular the stability of the agents further improved if, in additionto the compound(s) of formula (I), the agents include specific acylateddiamines.

Hair treatment agents which are preferred according to the invention aretherefore characterized in that they additionally include 0.1 to 10 wt.% of at least one compound of formula (II)

in which x denotes 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 or 24.

Compounds of formula (II) with n=20 are here more preferred. Highlypreferred agents according to the invention are distinguished in thatthey include a compound of formula (I) always in conjunction with acompound of general formula (II).

A further group are quaternary imidazoline compounds. The formula(Tkat2) illustrated below shows the structure of these compounds.

The residues R mutually independently in each case denote a saturated orunsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon residue with a chain lengthof 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of formula (Tkat2) ineach case include the identical hydrocarbon residue for R. The chainlength of the residues R preferably amounts to 12 to 21 carbon atoms. Adenotes an anion as previously described. Examples which areparticularly according to the invention are obtainable for example underthe INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 andQuaternium-91. Quaternium-91 is highly preferred according to theinvention.

In a more preferred embodiment of the invention, the agents according tothe invention furthermore include at least one amine and/or cationizedamine, in particular an amidoamine and/or a cationized amidoamine withthe following structural formulae:R¹—NH—(CH₂)_(n)—N⁺R²R³R⁴A  (Tkat3)in which R¹ means an acyl or alkyl residue with 6 to 30 C atoms whichmay be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein theacyl residue and/or the alkyl residue may include at least one OH group,and

-   R², R³ and R⁴ in each case mutually independently mean-   1) hydrogen or-   2) an alkyl residue with 1 to 4 C atoms which may be identical or    different, saturated or unsaturated and-   3) a branched or unbranched hydroxyalkyl group with one to 4 carbon    atoms with at least one and at most three hydroxyl groups, for    example —CH₂OH, —CH₂CH₂OH, —CHOHCHOH, —CH₂CHOHCH₃, —CH(CH₂OH)₂,    —COH(CH₂OH)₂, —CH₂CHOHCH₂OH, —CH₂CH₂CH₂OH and hydroxybutyl residues,    and-   A means an anion as previously described and-   n means an integer between 1 and 10.

A preferred composition is one in which the amine and/or the quaternizedamine according to general formula (Tkat3) is an amidoamine and/or aquaternized amidoamine, in which R¹ means a branched or unbranched,saturated or unsaturated acyl residue with 6 to 30 C atoms which mayinclude at least one OH group. A fatty acid residue obtained from oilsand waxes, in particular from natural oils and waxes, is here preferred.Examples thereof which may be considered are lanolin, beeswax orcandelilla wax.

Preferred amidoamines and/or quaternized amidoamines are also those inwhich R², R³ and/or R⁴ in formula (Tkat3) mean a residue according togeneral formula CH₂CH₂OR⁵, in which R⁵ may have the meaning of alkylresidues with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyethyl or hydrogen. Thepreferred size of n in general formula (Tkat8) is an integer between 2and 5.

The alkylamidoamines may both be present as such and be converted into aquaternary compound in the composition by protonation in anappropriately acidic solution. Cationic alkylamidoamines are preferredaccording to the invention.

Examples of such commercial products according to the invention areWitcamine® 100, Incromine® BB, Mackine® 401 and other Mackine® grades,Adogen® S18V, and, as permanently cationic aminoamides: Rewoquat® RTM50, Empigen® CSC, Swanol® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat® UTM 50,Schercoquat® BAS, Lexquat® AMG-BEO, or Incroquat® Behenyl HE.

The above-stated cationic surfactants may be used individually or in anydesired combinations with one another, wherein quantities of between0.01 and 10 wt. %, preferably quantities of 0.01 to 7.5 wt. % andparticularly preferably quantities of 0.1 to 5.0 wt. % are present. Thevery best results are here obtained with quantities of 0.1 to 3.0 wt. %in each case relative to the total composition of the respective agent.

Further quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic and amphotericpolymers. The cationic and/or amphoteric polymers may be homo- orcopolymers or polymers based on natural polymers, wherein the quaternarynitrogen groups are present either in the polymer chain or preferably assubstituents on one or more of the monomers. Monomers including ammoniumgroups may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitablecationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizablecompounds which bear at least one cationic group, in particularammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as for exampletrialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium,dialkyl-diallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers withcyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium,imidazolinium or quaternary pyrrolidones, for examplealkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium or alkylvinylpyrrolidonesalts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkylgroups such as for example C₁ to C₇ alkyl groups, more preferably C₁ toC₃ alkyl groups.

Monomers including ammonium groups may be copolymerized withnon-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are for example acrylamide,methacrylamide; alkyl- and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl- anddialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate,vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl esters, forexample vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethyleneglycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C₁ toC₇ alkyl groups, more preferably C₁ to C₃ alkyl groups.

Among the numerous polymers of this kind, the following have proven tobe particularly effective components of the active substance complexaccording to the invention:

-   homopolymers of general formula    —{CH₂—[CR¹COO—(CH₂)_(m)N⁺R²R³R⁴]}_(n) X⁻,-   in which R¹=—H or —CH₃, R², R³ and R⁴ are mutually independently    selected from C₁₋₄ alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m=1, 2, 3    or 4, n is a natural number and-   X⁻ is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion. In    the context of these polymers, those which are preferred according    to the invention are those for which at least one of the following    conditions applies: R¹ denotes a methyl group, R², R³ and R⁴ denote    methyl groups, m has the value 2.

Physiologically acceptable counterions X⁻ which may, for example, beconsidered are halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfateions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetateions. Methosulfate and halide ions, in particular chloride, arepreferred.

Suitable cationic polymers are for example copolymers according toformula (Copo) which are present in the hair treatment agents accordingto the invention preferably in a quantity, relative to the weightthereof, of 0.001 to 5 wt. %, preferably 0.0025 to 2.5 wt. %, morepreferably 0.005 to 1 wt. %, further preferably 0.0075 to 0.75 wt. % andin particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt. %.

in which:x+y+z=Q

-   Q denotes values from 3 to 55000, preferably from 10 to 25000, more    preferably from 50 to 15000, further preferably from 100 to 10000,    still more preferably from 500 to 8000 and in particular from 1000    to 5000,-   x denotes (0 to 0.5) Q, preferably (0 to 0.3) Q and in particular    the values 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, wherein the value 0 is preferred,-   y denotes (0.1 to 0.95) Q, preferably (0.5 to 0.7) Q and in    particular values from 1 to 24000, preferably from 5 to 15000, more    preferably from 10 to 10000 and in particular from 100 to 4800,-   z denotes (0.001 to 0.5) Q, preferably (0.1 to 0.5) Q and in    particular values from 1 to 12500, preferably from 2 to 8000, more    preferably from 3 to 4000 and in particular from 5 to 2000.

One highly preferred copolymer which is of the above-described structureis commercially obtainable under the name Polyquaternium-74.

One particularly suitable homopolymer ispoly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride), which may ifdesired be crosslinked, with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Suchproducts are commercially obtainable for example under the namesRheocare® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® CR (3V Sigma).

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymerdispersion. Such polymer dispersions are commercially obtainable underthe names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96.

Suitable cationic polymers which are derived from natural polymers arecationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example cationicderivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Chitosan and chitosanderivatives are furthermore suitable. Cationic polysaccharides have thegeneral formula G-O—B—N⁺R_(a)R_(b)R_(c)A⁻

-   G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose    anhydroglucose;-   B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene,    polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene;-   R_(a), R_(b) and R_(c) are mutually independently alkyl, aryl,    alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl in each case with up    to 18 C atoms, wherein the total number of C atoms in R_(a), R_(b)    and R_(c) preferably amounts to at most 20;-   X⁻ is a conventional counteranion and is preferably chloride.

Cationic, thus quaternized, celluloses are commercially obtainable withdifferent degrees of substitution, cationic charge densities, nitrogencontents and molecular weights.

For example, Polyquaternium-67 is commercially offered for sale underthe names Polymer® SL or Polymer® SK (Amerchol). A further highlypreferred cellulose is offered for sale under the trade name Mirustyle®CP from Croda. This is a trimonium and cocodimoniumhydroxyethylcellulose as a derivatized cellulose with the INCI namePolyquaternium-72. Polyquaternium-72 may be used both in solid form andalready predissolved in aqueous solution.

Further cationic celluloses are Polymer JR® 400 (Amerchol, INCI namePolyquaternium-10) and Polymer Quatrisoft® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI namePolyquaternium-24). Further commercial products are the compoundsCelquat® H 100 and Celquat® L 200. Particularly preferred cationiccelluloses are Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 andPolyquaternium-72.

Suitable cationic guar derivatives are distributed under the trade nameJaguar® and have the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.Particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives are furthermore alsocommercially obtainable from Hercules under the name N-Hance®. Furthercationic guar derivatives are distributed by Cognis under the nameCosmedia®. One preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercialproduct AquaCat® from Hercules. This raw material is an alreadypredissolved cationic guar derivative. Cationic guar derivatives arepreferred according to the invention.

One suitable chitosan is for example distributed by Kyowa Oil & Fat,Japan, under the tradename Flonac®. One preferred chitosan salt ischitosoniumpyrrolidone carboxylate, which is for example distributed byAmerchol, USA, under the name Kytamer® PC. Further chitosan derivativesare readily commercially obtainable under the trade names Hydagen® CMF,Hydagen® HCMF and Chitolam® NB/101.

A further group of polymers which may excellently be used according tothe invention are polymers based on glucose. The following figure showsone such cationic alkyl oligoglucoside.

In the formula shown above, the residues R mutually independently denotea linear or branched C₆ to C₃₀ alkyl residue, a linear or branchedC₆-C₃₀ alkenyl residue; the residue R preferably denotes a residue Rselected from: lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl orarachidyl.

The residues R¹ mutually independently denote a linear or branched C₆ toC₃₀ alkyl residue, a linear or branched C₆ to C₃₀ alkenyl residue; theresidue R preferably denotes a residue selected from: butyl, capryl,caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl,oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl. The residues R¹ are more preferablyidentical. The residues R¹ are still more preferably selected fromtechnical mixtures of the fatty alcohol cuts from C₆/C₈ fatty alcohols,C₈/C₁₀ fatty alcohols, C₁₀/C₁₂ fatty alcohols, C₁₂/C₁₄ fatty alcohols,C₁₂/C₁₈ fatty alcohols, and highly preferred technical fatty alcoholcuts are those which are of plant origin. The counterion to the cationiccharge is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halide,methosulfate, phosphate, citrate, tartrate, etc. The counterion ispreferably a halide, such as fluoride, chloride or bromide, ormethosulfate. The anion is highly preferably chloride.

More preferred examples of cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are thecompounds with the INCI names Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-78,Polyquaternium-79, Polyquaternium-80, Polyquaternium-81 andPolyquaternium-82.

Highly preferred cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are those with the namesPolyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82.

Such compounds may for example be purchased under the name Poly Suga®Quat from Colonial Chemical Inc.

The cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are used in a total quantity of 0.01to 10.0 wt. %, preferably of 0.05 to 5.0 wt. %, still more preferably of0.1 to 3.0 wt. % and highly preferably in quantities of 0.2 to 2.0 wt. %in each case relative to the total weight of the composition. It goeswithout saying that a plurality of mixtures of cationic alkyloligoglucosides may also be used according to the invention. It ispreferred in this case, for one long-chain and one short-chain cationicalkyl oligoglucoside to be used simultaneously.

A further preferred cationic polymer may be obtained on the basis ofethanolamine. The polymer is commercially obtainable under the namePolyquaternium-71.

This polymer may for example be purchased under the name Cola® Moist 300P from Colonial Chemical Inc. Polyquaternium-71 is used in a totalquantity of 0.01 to 10.0 wt. %, preferably of 0.05 to 5.0 wt. %, stillmore preferably of 0.1 to 3.0 wt. % and highly preferably in quantitiesof 0.2 to 2.0 wt. % in each case relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

A cationic alkyl oligoglucoside as shown in the following figure mayfurthermore particularly preferentially be used.

In the formula shown above, the residue R² denotes a linear or branchedC₆ to C₃₀ alkyl residue, a linear or branched C₆-C₃₀ alkenyl residue;the residue R preferably denotes a residue R selected from: lauryl,myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl.

The residue R¹ mutually independently denotes a linear or branched C₆ toC₃₀ alkyl residue, a linear or branched C₆ to C₃₀ alkenyl residue; theresidue R¹ preferably denotes a residue selected from: butyl, capryl,caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl,oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl. The residue R¹ is still more preferablyselected from technical mixtures of the fatty alcohol cuts from C₆/C₈fatty alcohols, C₈/C₁₀ fatty alcohols, C₁₀/C₁₂ fatty alcohols, C₁₂/C₁₄fatty alcohols, C₁₂/C₁₈ fatty alcohols, and highly preferred technicalfatty alcohol cuts are those which are of plant origin. The index ndenotes a number between 1 and 20, preferably between 1 and 10, morepreferably between 1 and 5 and highly preferably between 1 and 3. Thecounterion for the cationic charge, A⁻, is a physiologically acceptableanion, for example halide, methosulfate, phosphate, citrate, tartrate,etc. The counterion is preferably a halide, such as fluoride, chlorideor bromide, or methosulfate. The anion is highly preferably chloride.

More preferred examples of the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are thecompounds with the INCI names Laurdimoniumhydroxypropyl DecylglucosidesChloride, Laurdimoniumhydroxypropyl Laurylglucosides Chloride,Stearyldimoniumhydroxypropyl Decylglucosides Chloride,Stearyldimoniumhydroxypropyl Laurylglucosides Chloride,Stearyldimoniumhydroxypropyl Laurylglucosides Chloride or CocoglucosidesHydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.

Such compounds may for example be purchased under the name Suga® Quatfrom Colonial Chemical Inc.

The cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are used in a total quantity of 0.01to 10.0 wt. %, preferably of 0.05 to 5.0 wt. %, still more preferably of0.1 to 3.0 wt. % and highly preferably in quantities of 0.2 to 2.0 wt. %in each case relative to the total weight of the composition. It goeswithout saying that a plurality of mixtures of cationic alkyloligoglucosides may also be used according to the invention. It ispreferred in this case, for one long-chain and one short-chain cationicalkyl oligoglucoside to be used simultaneously.

One more preferred cationic polymer according to the invention is thecopolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam,N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)methacrylamide and3-(methacryloylamino)propyllauryldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name:Polyquaternium-69), which is sold for example under the trade nameAquaStyle® 300 (28-32 wt. % active substance in ethanol/water mixture,molecular weight 350000) by ISP.

Further preferred cationic polymers are for example

-   -   cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat®        50,    -   polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and the copolymers        thereof with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic        acid. The products commercially obtainable under the names        Merquat®100 (poly(dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and        Merquat®550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide        copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers with the INCI        name Polyquaternium-7,    -   vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, as        are offered for sale under the names Luviquat® FC 370 and FC 550        and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 together with FC 905 and        HM552,    -   quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate,        for example vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate        methosulfate copolymer, which is distributed by Gaf Co., USA        under the trade names Gafquat® 755 N and Gafquat® 734 and the        INCI name Polyquaternium-11,    -   quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,    -   and the polymers known by the names Polyquaternium-2,        Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18 and Polyquaternium-27 with        quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,    -   vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, as are        for example offered for sale with acrylic acid esters and        acrylamides as the third monomeric building block under the name        Aquaflex® SF 40.

Amphoteric polymers according to the invention are those polymers inwhich a cationic group is derived from at least one of the followingmonomers:

-   (i) monomers with quaternary ammonium groups of general formula    (Mono1),    R¹—CH═CR²—CO—Z—(C_(n)H_(2n))—N⁽⁺⁾R²R³R⁴A⁽⁻⁾  (Mono1)    in which R¹ and R² mutually independently denote hydrogen or a    methyl group and R³, R⁴ and R⁵ mutually independently denote alkyl    groups with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom,    n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A⁽⁻⁾ is the anion of an organic or    inorganic acid,-   (i) monomers with quaternary ammonium groups of general formula    (Mono2),

in which R⁶ and R⁷ mutually independently denote a (C₁ to C₄) alkylgroup, in particular a methyl group and A⁻ is the anion of an organic orinorganic acid,

-   (iii) monomeric carboxylic acids of general formula (Mono3),    R⁸—CH═CR⁹—COOH  (Mono3)    in which R⁸ and R⁹ are mutually independently hydrogen or methyl    groups.

More preferred polymers are those in which monomers of type (i) areused, in which R³, R⁴ and R⁵ are methyl groups, Z is an NH group andA⁽⁻⁾ a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion;acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a more preferred monomer(i). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (ii) for the statedpolymers.

More preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers prepared from at leastone monomer (Mono1) or (Mono2) with the monomer (Mono3), in particularcopolymers prepared from monomers (Mono2) and (Mono3). Amphotericpolymers which are particularly preferably used according to theinvention are copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylicacid. These copolymers are distributed under the INCI namePolyquaternium-22, inter alia with the trade name Merquat® 280 (Nalco).

Apart from a monomer (Mono1) or (Mono2) and a monomer (Mono3),amphoteric polymers according to the invention may furthermoreadditionally include a monomer (Mono4)

-   (iv) monomeric carboxamides of general formula (Mono4),

in which R¹⁰ and R¹¹ are mutually independently hydrogen or methylgroups and R¹² denotes a hydrogen atom or a (C₁ to C₈) alkyl group.

Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are particularlypreferably used according to the invention are terpolymers ofdiallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. Thesecopolymers are distributed under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, interalia with the trade name Merquat® Plus 3330 (Nalco).

The amphoteric polymers may generally be used according to the inventionboth directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization ofthe polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide.

The above-stated cationic polymers may be used individually or in anydesired combinations with one another, wherein quantities of between0.01 and 10 wt. %, preferably quantities of 0.01 to 7.5 wt. % andparticularly preferably quantities of 0.1 to 5.0 wt. % are present. Thevery best results are here obtained with quantities of 0.1 to 3.0 wt. %in each case relative to the total composition of the respective agent.

It goes without saying that, in addition to the active ingredientcombination according to the invention, the hair treatment agentsaccording to the invention also include further components conventionalin cosmetic compositions. The selection of these components is generallydetermined by the intended use of the hair treatment agents. In the caseof a shampoo, further surface-active substances will, for example, bepresent. In the case of hair masks, further cationic compounds andfurther conditioning substances will optionally be present.

In a more preferred embodiment of the active substance complex accordingto the invention, the agents according to the invention preferablyinclude at least one amino-functional silicone. Cationic silicone oilswhich are suitable according to the invention are for example thecommercially obtainable products Dow Corning (DC) 929 Emulsion, DC2-2078, DC 5-7113, SM-2059 (General Electric) and SLM-55067 (Wacker).

More preferred agents according to the invention are characterized inthat they include at least one amino-functional silicone of formula(Si3-a)

in which m and n are numbers, the sum of which (m+n) amounts to between1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, wherein n preferably assumesvalues from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferablyassumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

According to the INCI declaration, these silicones are designatedtrimethylsilylamodimethicones and are obtainable for example under thename Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilizedtrimethylsilylamodimethicone).

Agents according to the invention which are more preferred are alsothose which include at least one amino-functional silicone of formula(Si-3b)

in which

-   R denotes —OH, an (optionally ethoxylated and/or propoxylated) (C₁    to C₂₀) alkoxy group or a —CH₃ group,-   R′ denotes —OH, a (C₁ to C₂₀) alkoxy group or a —CH₃ group and-   m, n1 and n2 are numbers, the sum of which (m+n1+n2) amounts to    between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, wherein the sum    of (n1+n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in    particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to    2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

According to the INCI declaration, these silicones are known asamodimethicones, or as functionalized amodimethicones, such as forexample Bis(C13-15 Alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (for example obtainable asthe commercial product DC 8500 from Dow Corning).

Suitable diquaternary silicones are selected from compounds of generalformula (Si3c)[R¹R²R³N⁺-A-SiR⁷R⁸—(O—SiR⁹R¹⁰)_(n)—O—SiR¹¹R¹²-A-N⁺R⁴R⁵R⁶]2X⁻  (Si3c)wherein the residues R¹ to R⁶ mutually independently mean C₁ to C₂₂alkyl residues which may include hydroxyl groups and wherein preferablyat least one of the residues has at least 8 C atoms and the remainingresidues have 1 to 4 C atoms,

-   residues R⁷ to R¹² are mutually independently identical or different    and mean C₁ to C₁₀ alkyl or phenyl,-   A means a divalent organic linking group,-   n is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 10 to 120, more    preferably from 10 to 40, and X⁻ is an anion.

The divalent linking group is preferably a C₁ to C₁₂ alkylene oralkoxyalkylene group which may be substituted with one or more hydroxylgroups.

The group —(CH₂)₃—O—CH₂—CH(OH)—CH₂— is more preferred.

The anion X⁻ may be a halide ion, an acetate, an organic carboxylate ora compound of general formula RSO₃ ⁻, in which R has the meaning of C₁to C₄ alkyl residues.

A preferred diquaternary silicone has the general formula (Si3d)[RN⁺Me₂-A-(SiMe₂O)_(n)—SiMe₂-A-N⁺Me₂R]₂CH₃COO⁻  (Si3d),wherein A is the group —(CH₂)₃—O—CH₂—CH(OH)—CH₂—,

-   R is an alkyl residue with at least 8 C atoms and n a number from 10    to 120.

Suitable silicone polymers with two terminal, quaternary ammonium groupsare known by the INCI name Quaternium-80. These are dimethylsiloxaneswith two terminal trialkylammonium groups. Such diquaternarypolydimethylsiloxanes are distributed by Evonik under the trade namesAbil® Quat 3270, 3272 and 3474.

Hair treatment agents which are preferred according to the invention arecharacterized in that, relative to the weight thereof, they include 0.01to 10 wt. %, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt. %, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt.% and in particular 0.2 to 5 wt. % of amino-functional silicone(s)and/or diquaternary silicone.

Polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are further silicones according tothe invention with amino functions. The polyammonium-polysiloxanecompounds may for example be obtained from GE Bayer Silicones under thetrade name Baysilone®. The products named Baysilone TP 3911, SME 253 andSFE 839 are here preferred. It is particularly preferred to useBaysilone TP 3911 as an active component of the compositions accordingto the invention. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are used inthe compositions according to the invention in a quantity of 0.01 to 10wt. %, preferably 0.01 to 7.5, more preferably 0.01 to 5.0 wt. %,particularly preferably of 0.05 to 2.5 wt. % in each case relative tothe total composition.

EP 1887024 A1 describes novel cationic amino-functional silicones whichin particular improve gloss in agents for conditioning surfaces, forexample human hair. These cationic silicone polymers are distinguishedin that they have a silicone backbone and at least one polyether moietyand furthermore at least one moiety with an ammonium structure. Examplesof preferred cationic silicone polymers for the purposes of the presentinvention are, in addition to the compounds of the above-stated EP1887024 A1, furthermore in particular the compounds with the INCI names:Silicone Quaternium-1, Silicone Quaternium-2, Silicone Quaternium-3,Silicone Quaternium-4, Silicone Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-6,Silicone Quaternium-7, Silicone Quaternium-8, Silicone Quaternium-9,Silicone Quaternium-10, Silicone Quaternium-11, Silicone Quaternium-12,Silicone Quaternium-15, Silicone Quaternium-16, Silicone Quaternium-17,Silicone Quaternium-18, Silicone Quaternium-20, Silicone Quaternium-21,Silicone Quaternium-22 and Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate andSilicone Quaternium-16/Glycidol Dimethicone Crosspolymer. SiliconeQuaternium-22 is in particular most preferred. This raw material isdistributed for example by Evonik under the trade name Abil® T-Quat 60.

A final aminosilicone which is particularly preferred according to theinvention is of the following formula:

in which R¹ denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyl, methoxy or ethoxy group,

-   R² denotes a straight-chain or branched C₈ to C₂₄ alkyl or alkylene    residue, preferably a straight-chain or branched C₉ to C₂₂ alkyl or    alkenyl residue, more preferably a straight-chain or branched C₁₁ to    C₁₈ alkyl or alkenyl residue, highly preferably a corresponding    alkyl residue,-   n and m in each case denote integers of 1 to 1000 and-   q in each case denotes an integer of 2 to 50, preferably 4 to 30,    more preferably 4 to 18 and highly preferably of 4 to 12.

The molecular weight of such compounds amounts to 15,000 to 2,000,000,measured with a Brookfield rotational viscometer RV, spindle 5, at 20°C. The molar weight preferably amounts to 30,000 to 1,750,000 and morepreferably 50,000 to 1,500,000. The nitrogen content of the siliconesaccording to the invention amounts to 0.03 to 4.2 wt. %, preferably 0.1to 2.8 wt. % and highly preferably 0.16 to 1.4 wt. %. Amino-functionalcationic silicones according to the invention of the above formula maybe purchased for example from Clariant. One product which is highlypreferred according to the invention is commercially obtainable underthe INCI name “Trideceth-9 Amodimethicone and Trideceth-12”.

The cationic amino-functional silicone polymers of the above-describedformula are present in the compositions according to the invention inquantities of 0.01 to 5 wt. %, preferably in quantities of 0.05 to 5 wt.% and particularly preferably in quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt. %. The verybest results are here obtained with quantities of 0.1 to 2.5 wt. % ineach case relative to the total composition of the respective agent.

The cationic amino-functional silicone polymers are present in thecompositions according to the invention in quantities of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably in quantities of 0.05 to 10 wt. % and particularlypreferably in quantities of 0.1 to 7.5 wt. %. The very best results areobtained with quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt. % in each case relative to thetotal composition of the respective agent.

The dimethicones according to the invention may be both linear andbranched and cyclic or cyclic and branched. Viscosities are between 100and 10000000 cPs measured at 25° C. with the assistance of a glasscapillary viscometer using the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004 of 20 Jul. 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1000 and 5000000cPs, very particularly preferred viscosities are between 10000 and3000000 cPs. The most preferred range is between 50000 and 2000000 cPs.Viscosities around the range of approximately 60,000 cPs are highlypreferred. Reference may be made by way of example to the product “DowCorning 200, 60000 cSt”.

More preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to theinvention are characterized in that they include at least one siliconeof formula (Si1.2)(CH₃)₃Si—[O—Si(CH₃)₂]_(x)—O—Si(CH₃)₃  (Si1.2),in which x denotes a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, morepreferably from 0 to 20 and in particular from 0 to 10.

The dimethicones are present in the compositions according to theinvention in quantities of 0.01 to 10 wt. %, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt. %,more preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt. % and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt. %relative to the composition.

Finally, silicone compounds are taken to mean dimethiconols. Thedimethiconols according to the invention may be both linear and branchedand cyclic or cyclic and branched. Viscosities are between 100 and10000000 cPs measured at 25° C. with the assistance of a glass capillaryviscometer using the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20Jul. 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1000 and 5000000 cPs, veryparticularly preferred viscosities are between 10000 and 3000000 cPs.The most preferred range is between 50000 and 2000000 cPs.

The following commercial products can be mentioned as examples of suchproducts: Dow Corning 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, DowCorning 2-9026 Fluid, Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), Dow Corning1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, SM555,SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all above-stated from GE Silicones),Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040,Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all above-stated from Wacker-ChemieGmbH).

The dimethiconols are in the compositions according to the invention inquantities of 0.01 to 10 wt. %, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt. %, morepreferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt. % and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt. % ofdimethiconol relative to the composition.

The cyclic dimethicones designated according to INCI as cyclomethiconesmay preferably be used according to the invention. Cosmetic ordermatological preparations which are preferred according to theinvention are those which include at least one silicone of formula(Si-4)

in which x denotes a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, morepreferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6.

Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are thosewhich are characterized in that they include at least one silicone offormula (Si-5)R³Si—[O—SiR²]_(x)—(CH₂)_(n)[O—SiR²]_(y)—O—SiR³  (Si-5),in which R denotes identical or different residues from the group —H,-phenyl, -benzyl, —CH₂—CH(CH₃)Ph, C₁₋₂₀ alkyl residues, preferably —CH₃,—CH₂CH₃, —CH₂CH₂CH₃, —CH(CH₃)₂, —CH₂CH₂CH₂H₃, —CH₂CH(CH₃)₂,—CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, —C(CH₃)₃, x and y denote a number from 0 to 200,preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n denotes a number from 0 to 10, preferablyfrom 1 to 8 and in particular 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

Further silicones which may be present in the compositions according tothe invention, in addition to the dimethicones, dimethiconols,amodimethicones and/or cyclomethicones according to the invention, arewater-soluble silicones.

Corresponding hydrophilic silicones are selected, for example, from thecompounds of formulae (Si-6) and/or (Si-7). Particularly preferredwater-soluble silicone-based surfactants are selected from the group ofdimethicone copolyols which are preferably alkoxylated, in particularpolyethoxylated or polypropoxylated.

According to the invention, dimethicone copolyols are preferably takento mean polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the generalformulae (Si-6) or (Si-7):

in which the residue R denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group with 1 to12 C atoms, an alkoxy group with 1 to 12 C atoms or a hydroxyl group,the residues R′ and R″ mean alkyl groups with 1 to 12 C atoms, x denotesan integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30, y denotes an integerfrom 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10 and a and b denote integers from 0to 50, preferably from 10 to 30.

Dimethicone copolyols which are more preferred for the purposes of theinvention are for example the products commercially distributed underthe trade name SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING.Dimethicone copolyols which are more preferred according to theinvention are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193.

The dimethicone copolyols are in the compositions according to theinvention in quantities of 0.01 to 10 wt. %, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt. %,more preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt. % and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt. % ofdimethicone copolyol relative to the composition.

Although any silicones may be used with the active ingredientcombination according to the invention, it has been found that theireffect declines in the sequence amino-functional silicones, dimethiconescomparable with dimethiconols, cyclomethicones and water-solublesilicones. When more than two silicones are used, combinations ofamino-functional silicones with dimethicones and/or dimethiconols havebeen found to be the most effective in increasing the effect of theactive ingredient combination according to the invention. The very besteffects are obtained if the silicones used are in each case thepreviously described more preferred silicone compounds.

A further ingredient which increases the effect of the active ingredientcombination according to the invention is an oil body. These are forexample particularly preferentially ester oils. Ester oils are definedas follows:

Ester oils should be taken to mean the esters of C₆-C₃₀ fatty acids withC₂-C₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols with2 to 24 C atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid moieties used inthe esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capricacid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid,palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidicacid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearicacid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid andthe technical mixtures thereof. Examples of fatty alcohol moieties inthe ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol,2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecylalcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearylalcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol,petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearylalcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucylalcohol and brassidyl alcohol and the technical mixtures thereof. Morepreferred substances according to the invention are isopropyl myristate(Rilanit® IPM), isononanoic acid C₁₆₋₁₈ alkyl esters (Cetiol® SN),2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester(Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fattyalcohol caprinate/caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleylerucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyloleate (Cetiol®), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyladipate (Cetiol® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol® mm), cetearylisononanoate (Cetiol® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol® V).

The ester oils may, of course, also be alkoxylated with ethylene oxide,propylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide.Alkoxylation may here proceed not only on the fatty alcohol moiety andthe fatty acid moiety but also on both moieties of the ester oils. Itis, however, preferred according to the invention if the fatty alcoholwas alkoxylated first and then esterified with fatty acid. Formula(D4-II) is a general representation of these compounds.

-   R¹ here denotes a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched,    cyclic saturated or cyclic unsaturated acyl residue with 6 to 30    carbon atoms, AO denotes ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or butylene    oxide,-   X denotes a number between 1 and 200, preferably 1 and 100, more    preferably between 1 and 50, particularly preferably between 1 and    20, highly preferably between 1 and 10 and most preferably between 1    and 5,-   R² denotes a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched,    cyclic saturated or cyclic unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl,    phenyl or benzyl residue with 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples of    fatty acid moieties used as residue R¹ in the esters are caproic    acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid,    isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid,    stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid,    petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid,    arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and the    technical mixtures thereof. Examples of fatty alcohol moieties as    residue R² in the ester oils are benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol,    caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric    alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol,    cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl    alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol,    linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl    alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and    brassidyl alcohol and the technical mixtures thereof. One ester oil    which is more preferred according to the invention is for example    obtainable under the INCI name PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate.

Ester oils should furthermore be taken to be:

-   -   dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate,        di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) succinate and        diisotridecyl acelate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol        dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol        di(2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene        glycol dipelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol        dicaprylate, and    -   symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with        fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl        carbonate (Cetiol® CC),    -   trifatty acid esters of saturated and/or unsaturated linear        and/or branched fatty acids with glycerol,    -   fatty acid partial glycerides, i.e. monoglycerides, diglycerides        and the technical mixtures thereof. Typical examples are mono-        and/or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid,        2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic        acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic        acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic        acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid,        arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and        the technical mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleic acid        monoglycerides are used.

The ester oils are used in the agents according to the invention in aquantity of 0.01 to 20 wt. %, preferably 0.01 to 10.0 wt. %, morepreferably 0.01 to 7.5 wt. %, highly preferably of 0.1 to 5.0 wt. %. Itis, of course, also possible according to the invention to use aplurality of ester oils simultaneously.

Further oil bodies according to the invention are:

-   -   plant oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil,        soy oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat        germ oil, peach stone oil and the liquid fractions of coconut        oil. However, other triglyceride oils such as the liquid        fractions of beef fat together with synthetic triglyceride oils        are also suitable.    -   liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic        hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of between 12        and 36 C atoms, in particular 12 to 24 C atoms, such as for        example di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether,        di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether,        n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether,        n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether and        di-tert.-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl        ether, tert.-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and        2-methylpentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds        1,3-di-(2-ethylhexyl)cyclohexane (Cetiol® S) and di-n-octyl        ether (Cetiol®OE) available as commercial products may be        preferred.

Natural oils which are used are for example amaranth seed oil, apricotkernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borageseed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil,grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil,blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamianut oil, maize germ oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil,olive oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil,sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soy oil, sunflower oil,grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil.

In many cases, the agents include at least one surfactant, wherein notonly anionic but also in principle zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionicand cationic surfactants are suitable. The surface-active substances areselected on the basis of the nature of the agent.

Anionic surfactants (Tanion) which are suitable in preparationsaccording to the invention are any anionic surface-active substancessuitable for use on the human body. Typical examples of anionicsurfactants are:

-   -   linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms (soaps),    -   ether carboxylic acids of formula R—O—(CH₂—CH₂O)_(x)—CH₂—COOH,        in which R is a linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x=0        or 1 to 16 and the salts thereof,    -   acyl sarcosides with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,    -   acyl taurides with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,    -   acyl isethionates with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,    -   sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 C atoms        in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl        esters with 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6        oxyethyl groups,    -   linear alkane sulfonates with 8 to 24 C atoms,    -   linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with 8 to 24 C atoms,    -   alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 8 to 30        C atoms,    -   alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of formula        R—O(CH₂—CH₂O)_(x)—OSO₃H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl        group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x=0 or 1 to 12,    -   hydroxysulfonates substantially corresponding to at least one of        the two following formulae or mixtures thereof and the salts        thereof,        CH₃—(CH₂)_(y)—CHOH—(CH₂)_(p)—(CH—SO₃M)-(CH₂)_(z)—CH₂—O—(C_(n)H_(2n)O)_(x)—H,        and/or        CH₃—(CH₂)_(y)—(CH—SO₃M)-(CH₂)_(p)—CHOH—(CH₂)_(z)—CH₂—O—(C_(n)H_(2n)O)_(x)—H        wherein in both formulae y and z=0 or integers from 1 to 18,        p=0, 1 or 2 and the sum (y+z+p) is a number from 12 to 18, x=0        or a number from 1 to 30 and n an integer from 2 to 4 and M=H or        an alkali metal ion, in particular sodium, potassium or lithium,        alkaline earth metal ion, in particular magnesium, calcium or        zinc, and/or an ammonium ion, which may optionally be        substituted, in particular mono-, di-, tri- or tetraammonium        ions with C₁ to C₄ alkyl, alkenyl or aryl residues,    -   sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene glycol ethers and/or        hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers of formula        R¹—(CHOSO₃M)-CHR³—(OCHR⁴—CH₂)_(n)—OR² where R¹ is a linear alkyl        residue with 1 to 24 C atoms, R² denotes a linear or branched,        saturated alkyl residue with 1 to 24 C atoms, R³ denotes        hydrogen or a linear alkyl residue with 1 to 24 C atoms, R⁴        denotes hydrogen or a methyl residue and M denotes hydrogen,        ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium, in which the alkyl and        alkanol residues in each case have 1 to 4 C atoms, or a metal        atom selected from lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium or        magnesium and n denotes a number in the range from 0 to 12 and        furthermore the total number of C atoms present in R¹ and R³        amounts to 2 to 44,    -   sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 C atoms and 1        to 6 double bonds,    -   esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are        addition products of approximately 2-15 molecules of ethylene        oxide and/or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C        atoms,    -   alkyl and/or alkenyl ether phosphates of formula        R¹(OCH₂CH₂)_(n)—O—(PO—OX)—OR², in which R¹ preferably denotes an        aliphatic hydrocarbon residue with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R²        denotes hydrogen, a residue (CH₂CH₂O)_(n)R² or X, n denotes        numbers from 1 to 10 and X denotes hydrogen, an alkali or        alkaline earth metal or NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, with R³ to R⁶ mutually        independently denoting hydrogen or a C₁ to C₄ hydrocarbon        residue,    -   sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of formula        RCO(AlkO)_(n)SO₃M in which RCO denotes a linear or branched,        aliphatic, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl residue with 6 to        22 C atoms, Alk denotes CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ and/or CH₂CHCH₃, n        denotes numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M denotes a metal, such as an        alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium or lithium, an        alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium or zinc,        or an ammonium ion, such as ⁺NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, with R³ to R⁶ mutually        independently denoting hydrogen or a C₁ to C₄ hydrocarbon        residue,    -   monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of        formula        R⁸OC—(OCH₂CH₂)_(x)—OCH₂—[CHO(CH₂CH₂O)_(y)H]—CH₂O(CH₂CH₂O)_(z)—SO₃X,    -   in which R⁸CO denotes a linear or branched acyl residue with 6        to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total denote 0 or denote        numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X denotes an        alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of        monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the        invention are the reaction products of lauric acid        monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid        monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid        monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and the        ethylene oxide addition products thereof with sulfur trioxide or        chlorosulfonic acid in the form of the sodium salts thereof.        Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates are used, in which R⁸CO        denotes a linear acyl residue with 8 to 18 carbon atoms,    -   amide-ether carboxylic acids        R¹—CO—NR²—CH₂CH₂—O—(CH₂CH₂O)_(n)CH₂COOM, where R¹ is a        straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl residue with a        number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n denotes an        integer from 1 to 20 and R² denotes hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl,        propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, or iso-butyl residue and M        denotes hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular        sodium, potassium or lithium, alkaline earth metal, in        particular magnesium, calcium or zinc, or an ammonium ion, such        as ⁺NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, with R³ to R⁶ mutually independently denoting        hydrogen or a C₁ to C₄ hydrocarbon residue. Such products are        obtainable for example from Chem-Y under the product name        Akypo®.    -   acyl glutamates of formula XOOC—CH₂CH₂CH(C(NH)OR)—COOX, in which        RCO denotes a linear or branched acyl residue with 6 to 22        carbon atoms and 0 and/or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X denotes        hydrogen, an alkali metal and/or alkaline earth metal, ammonium,        alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium,    -   condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble        protein hydrolysate with a C₈-C₃₀ fatty acid. Such products have        long been commercially obtainable under the trademarks Lamepon®,        Maypon®, Gluadin®, Hostapon® KCG or Amisoft®.    -   alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates,        phosphates and/or isethionates,    -   acyl lactylates and    -   hydroxy mixed ether sulfates.

If the mild anionic surfactants include polyglycol ether chains, it isparticularly preferable for them to have a narrow homolog distribution.Furthermore, in the case of mild anionic surfactants with polyglycolether units, it is preferred for the number of glycol ether groups toamount to 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, more preferably 2 to 12.Particularly mild anionic surfactants with polyglycol ether groupswithout a narrow homolog distribution may for example also be obtainedif, on the one hand, the number of polyglycol ether groups amounts to 4to 12 and Zn or Mg ions are selected as the counterion. One example ofthese is the commercial product Texapon® ASV.

Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are “betaines” such asN-alkyl N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for examplecocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate,N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for examplecocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines with in each case 8to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group andcocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. One preferredzwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by theINCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants (Tampho) are taken to mean those surface-activecompounds which are capable of forming internal salts. Examples ofsuitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionicacids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids,N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines,N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoaceticacids with in each case approximately 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkylgroup. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants arealkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates,imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.

More preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkyl aminopropionate,cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C₁₂ to C₁₈ acyl sarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants (Tnio) are for example

-   -   addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5        mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols        with 6 to 30 C atoms, fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers or fatty        alcohol polypropylene glycol ethers or mixed fatty alcohol        polyethers,    -   addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5        mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty acids with        6 to 30 C atoms, fatty acid polyglycol ethers or fatty acid        polypropylene glycol ethers or mixed fatty acid polyethers,    -   addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5        mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched alkylphenols        with 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, alkylphenol polyglycol        ethers or alkyl polypropylene glycol ethers, or mixed        alkylphenol polyethers,    -   addition products, end group-terminated with a methyl or C₂-C₆        alkyl residue, of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5        mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols        with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, onto fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms        and onto alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group,        such as for example the grades obtainable under the commercial        names Dehydol® LS, Dehydol® LT (Cognis),    -   C₁₂-C₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1        to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto glycerol,    -   addition products of 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor        oil and hardened castor oil,    -   polyol fatty acid esters, such as for example the commercial        product Hydagen® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol grades (Cognis),    -   alkoxylated triglycerides,    -   alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of formula (Tnio-1)        R¹CO—(OCH₂CHR²)_(w)OR³  (Tnio-1)    -   in which R¹CO denotes a linear or branched, saturated and/or        unsaturated acyl residue with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R² denotes        hydrogen or methyl, R³ denotes linear or branched alkyl residues        with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w denotes numbers from 1 to 20,    -   amine oxides,    -   hydroxy mixed ethers        R¹O[CH₂CH(CH₃)O]_(x)(CH₂CHR²O)_(y)[CH₂CH(OH)R³]_(z) with R¹        denoting a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl        and/or alkenyl residue with 2 to 30 C atoms, R² denoting        hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, propyl or iso-propyl residue, R³        denoting a linear or branched alkyl residue with 2 to 30 C        atoms, x denoting 0 or a number from 1 to 20, Y denoting a        number from 1 to 30 and z denoting the number 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5.    -   sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene        oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters such as for example        polysorbates,    -   sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide        onto sugar fatty acid esters,    -   addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid        alkanolamides and fatty amines,    -   sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type,    -   sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl        polyhydroxyalkylamide type,    -   fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol        ethers,    -   mixed ethers or mixed formals and polysorbates.

The surfactants are used in quantities of 0.05-45 wt. %, preferably of0.1-30 wt. % and particularly preferably of 0.5-25 wt. %, relative tothe total agent used according to the invention.

Examples of emulsifiers which may be used according to the inventionare:

-   -   addition products of 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5        mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C        atoms, onto fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms and onto        alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group,    -   C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1        to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols with 3 to 6 carbon        atoms, in particular onto glycerol,    -   ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products onto methyl        glucoside/fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty        acid glucamides,    -   C₈-C₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and the ethoxylated        analogs thereof, wherein degrees of oligomerization of 1.1 to 5,        in particular of 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component        are preferred,    -   mixtures of alkyl (oligo)glucosides and fatty alcohols, for        example the commercially available product Montanov®68,    -   addition products of 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor        oil and hardened castor oil, partial esters of polyols with 3-6        carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids with 8 to 22 C atoms,    -   sterols, both from animal tissue (zoosterols, cholesterol,        lanosterol) and from plant fats (phytosterols, ergosterol,        stigmasterol, sitosterol) or from fungi and yeasts        (mycosterols),    -   phospholipids (lecithin, phosphatidylcholines),    -   fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as        sorbitol,    -   polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as for example        polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product        Dehymuls® PGPH).

The agents according to the invention preferably include the emulsifiersin quantities of 0.1-25 wt. %, in particular of 0.5-15 wt. %, relativeto the total agent.

The compositions according to the invention more preferentially includefatty substances as a further active substance. Fatty substances shouldbe taken to mean fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and syntheticwaxes, which may assume both solid form and liquid form in an aqueousdispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components. Fattyacids which may be used are linear and/or branched, saturated and/orunsaturated fatty acids with 6-30 carbon atoms. Fatty acids with 10-22carbon atoms are preferred. Such substances which may, for example, bementioned are isostearic acids, such as the commercial products Emersol®871 and Emersol® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercialproduct Edenor® IP 95, and any further fatty acids distributed under thetradename Edenor® (Cognis). Further typical examples of such fatty acidsare caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid,lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid,palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidicacid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearicacid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid andthe technical mixtures thereof. The fatty acid cuts obtainable fromcoconut oil or palm oil are conventionally more preferred; in general,it is more preferred to use stearic acid.

The quantity used here amounts to 0.1-15 wt. %, relative to the totalagent. Preferably, the quantity amounts to 0.5-10 wt. %, whereinquantities of 1-5 wt. % are particularly advantageous.

Fatty alcohols which may be used are saturated, mono- orpolyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C₆-C₃₀,preferably C₁₀-C₂₂ and particularly preferably C₁₂-C₂₂ carbon atoms. Forthe purposes of the invention, it is for example possible to usedecanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol,decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucic alcohol, ricinol alcohol, stearylalcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristylalcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleylalcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and the Guerbet alcoholsthereof, wherein this list is intended to be of an exemplary andnon-limiting nature. The fatty alcohols are, however, preferably derivedfrom natural fatty acids, wherein the conventional starting point isisolation from the fatty acid esters by reduction. Fatty alcohol cutswhich are a mixture of various fatty alcohols may likewise be usedaccording to the invention. Such substances are commercially obtainablefor example under the names Stenol®, for example Stenol® 1618 orLanette®, for example Lanette® O or Lorol®, for example Lorol® C8,Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, for exampleCrodacol® CS, Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18,Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb®12, Isocarb® 16 or Isocarb® 24. Wool wax alcohols, as are for examplecommercially obtainable under the names Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet®or Fluilan®, may of course also be used according to the invention. Thefatty alcohols are used in quantities of 0.1-30 wt. %, relative to thetotal preparation, preferably in quantities of 0.1-20 wt. %.

Natural or synthetic waxes which may be used according to the inventionare solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes,candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruitwaxes such as for example apple wax or citrus wax, or PE or PPmicrowaxes. Such waxes are obtainable for example through Kahl & Co.,Trittau.

The quantity used amounts to 0.1-50 wt. % relative to the total agent,preferably 0.1-20 wt. % and more preferably 0.1-15 wt. % relative to thetotal agent.

The total quantity of oil and fat components in the agents according tothe invention conventionally amounts to 0.5-75 wt. %, relative to thetotal agent. Quantities of 0.5-35 wt. % are preferred according to theinvention.

A further synergistic active substance according to the invention in thecompositions according to the invention with the active substancecomplex according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and/or thederivatives thereof.

Protein hydrolysates of both plant and animal origin or marine orsynthetic origin may be used according to the invention.

Animal protein hydrolysates are for example elastin, collagen, keratin,silk and milk protein hydrolysates which may also assume salt form. Suchproducts are distributed for example under the tradenames Dehylan®(Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan®(Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein®(Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).

Further plant protein hydrolysates which are preferred according to theinvention are for example soy, almond, pea, moringa, potato and wheatprotein hydrolysates. Such products are obtainable for example under thetrademarks Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex),Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda),Hydrotritium® (Croda), Crotein® (Croda) and Puricare® LS 9658 fromLaboratoires Sérobiologiques. Further protein hydrolysates which arepreferred according to the invention are of maritime origin. Theseinclude for example collagen hydrolysates from fish or seaweed andprotein hydrolysates from mussels or pearl hydrolysates. Examples ofpearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial productsPearl Protein Extract BG® or Crodarom® Pearl.

Cationized protein hydrolysates should furthermore be included amongprotein hydrolysates and the derivatives thereof, wherein the underlyingprotein hydrolysate may originate from animals, for example fromcollagen, milk or keratin, from plants, for example from wheat, maize,rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example fromfish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically obtained proteinhydrolysates. Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates andderivatives according to the invention which may be mentioned are thosethat are commercially obtainable and mentioned among the INCI names inthe “International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook”,(seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association1101 17th Street, N.W., Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702.

The protein hydrolysates are present in the compositions inconcentrations of 0.001 wt. % to 20 wt. %, preferably of 0.05 wt. % to15 wt. % and particularly preferably in quantities of 0.05 wt. % to 5wt. %.

A further preferred group of ingredients of the compositions accordingto the invention with the active substance complex according to theinvention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. Vitamins,provitamins and vitamin precursors which are more preferred are thosewhich are assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances designated vitamin A includes retinol (vitaminA₁) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A₂). β-Carotene is the provitaminof retinol. Examples of a vitamin A component which may be consideredaccording the invention are vitamin A acid and the esters thereof,vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and the esters thereof such asthe palmitate and the acetate. The agents according to the inventionpreferably include the vitamin A component in quantities of from 0.05-1wt. %, relative to the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex includes, inter alia:

-   vitamin B₁ (thiamin)-   vitamin B₂ (riboflavin)-   vitamin B₃. This designation is frequently used for the compounds    nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide). Nicotinamide is    preferred according to the invention and is preferably present in    the agents according to the invention in quantities of from 0.05 to    1 wt. %, relative to the total agent.

Vitamin B₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). In thecontext of this group, panthenol and/or pantolactone are preferablyused. Derivatives of panthenol which may be used according to theinvention are in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol andcationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are forexample panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and themonoacetate thereof and cationic panthenol derivatives. Pantothenic acidis preferably used in the present invention as a derivative in the formof the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca pantothenate, Napantothenate).

Vitamin B₆ (pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

The stated compounds of the vitamin B type, in particular vitamin B₃, B₅and B₆, are preferably present in the agents according to the inventionin quantities of from 0.05-10 wt. %, relative to the total agent.Quantities of 0.1-5 wt. % are more preferred.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is preferably used in the agentsaccording to the invention in quantities of from 0.1 to 3 wt. %,relative to the total agent. Use in the form of the palmitic acid ester,the glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination withtocopherols may likewise be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and thederivatives thereof, which include in particular the esters such as theacetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferablypresent in the agents according to the invention in quantities of from0.05-1 wt. %, relative to the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term “vitamin F” is conventionally understood to meanessential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid andarachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H denotes the compound(3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazole-4-valeric acid,which is now, however, known by the common name biotin. Biotin ispresent in the agents according to the invention preferably inquantities of from 0.0001 to 1.0 wt. %, in particular in quantities offrom 0.001 to 0.01 wt. %.

The agents according to the invention preferably include vitamins,provitamins and vitamin precursors from the groups A, B, E and H.Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and the derivatives thereof andnicotinamide and biotin are more preferred.

One more preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic compositionsaccording to the invention are the betaines stated below: carnitine,carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetylcarnitine,betalains, 1,1-dimethylproline, choline, choline chloride, cholinebitartrate, choline dihydrogencitrate and the compoundN,N,N-trimethylglycine which is designated as a betaine in theliterature.

Carnitine, histidine, choline and betaine are preferably used.L-Carnitine tartrate is used as active substance in a more preferredembodiment of the invention.

More preferred agents according to the invention are those which,relative to the weight thereof, include 0.0001 to 10.0 wt. %, preferably0.0005 to 5.0 wt. %, more preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt. % and inparticular 0.001 to 1.0 wt. % of at least one of the above-statedbetaines, in particular carnitine tartrate.

In a further embodiment which is preferred according to the invention,the compositions according to the invention include bioquinones. In theagents according to the invention, suitable bioquinones should be takento mean one or more ubiquinone(s) and/or plastoquinone(s). Ubiquinoneswhich are preferred according to the invention have the followingformula:

with n=6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

-   Coenzyme Q-10 is here most preferred.

Preferred compositions according to the invention include purine and/orpurine derivatives in relatively narrow quantity ranges. Cosmetic agentswhich are preferred according to the invention are here characterized inthat, relative to the weight thereof, they include 0.001 to 2.5 wt. %,preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt. %, more preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt. % and inparticular 0.01 to 0.1 wt. % of purine(s) and/or purine derivative(s).Cosmetic agents which are preferred according to the invention arecharacterized in that they include purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid,hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine,theobromine or theophylline. Caffeine is most preferred in hair cosmeticpreparations.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmeticagent includes ectoine(S)-2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid).

Agents which are more preferred according to the invention are thosewhich, relative to the weight thereof, include 0.00001 to 10.0 wt. %,preferably 0.0001 to 5.0 wt. % and in particular 0.001 to 3 wt. % of theactive substances from the group which is formed by carnitine, coenzymeQ-10, ectoine, a vitamin of the B series, a purine and the derivativesthereof or physiologically acceptable salts.

One particularly preferred conditioning additive in the hair treatmentagents according to the invention is taurine. Taurine is exclusivelytaken to mean 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid while a derivative is taken tomean the explicitly stated derivatives of taurine. The derivatives oftaurine are taken to mean N-monomethyltaurine, N,N-dimethyltaurine,taurine lysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithate, lysyltaurine andornithyltaurine.

More preferred agents according to the invention are those which,relative to the weight thereof, include 0.0001 to 10.0 wt. %, preferably0.0005 to 5.0 wt. %, more preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt. % and inparticular 0.001 to 1.0 wt. % of taurine and/or a derivative of taurine.The effect of the compositions according to the invention may beadditionally increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and thederivatives thereof. The sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium orammonium salts, in which, in addition to hydrogen, the ammonium ionbears one to three C₁ to C₄ alkyl groups, are preferred. The sodium saltis particularly preferred. The quantities used in the agents accordingto the invention amount to 0.05 to 10 wt. %, relative to the totalagent, more preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt. %.

Thanks to the use of plant extracts as conditioning substances, the hairtreatment agents according to the invention may have a formulation whichis particularly close to nature while nevertheless being very effectivein terms of their conditioning performance. It is optionally evenpossible to dispense with the preservatives which would otherwise beconventional. According to the invention, preference is above all givento extracts from green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel,hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom,almond, aloe vera, pine needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper,coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi fruit, melon, orange,grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, lady's smock, wildthyme, yarrow, thyme, melissa, restharrow, coltsfoot, marsh mallow,meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root and ayurvedicplant extracts, such as for example Aegle marmelos (bilwa), Cyperusrotundus (nagar motha), Emblica officinalis (amalaki), Morida citrifolia(ashyuka), Tinospora cordifolia (guduchi), Santalum album (chandana),Crocus sativus (kumkuma), Cinnamonum zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera(kamala), sweet grasses such as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelt, maize,the various varieties of millet (proso millet, African finger millet,foxtail millet by way of example), sugar cane, ryegrass, meadow foxtail,oat grass, bentgrass, meadow fescue, moor grass, bamboo, cotton grass,fountain grasses, Andropogoneae (Imperata cylindrica also known as bladygrass or cogon grass), buffalo grass, cordgrasses, dog's tooth grasses,lovegrasses, Cymbopogon (lemon grass), Oryzeae (rice), Zizania (wildrice), marram grass, steppe oat, softgrasses, quaking grasses,bluegrasses, couch grasses and Echinacea, in particular Echinaceapurpurea (L.) Moench, all species of vine and pericarp of Litchichinensis.

The plant extracts may be used according to the invention in both pureand dilute form. Where used in dilute form, they conventionally includeapproximately 2-80 wt. % of active substance and, as solvent, theextracting agent or extracting agent mixture used to isolate them.

It may occasionally be necessary to use anionic polymers. Examples ofanionic monomers of which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid,methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. In this case, the acidicgroups may be present wholly or in part as a sodium, potassium,ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid are preferredmonomers.

Anionic polymers which have proven very particularly effective are thosewhich include as sole or co-monomer 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonicacid, wherein the sulfonic acid group may be present wholly or in partas a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.

The homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid is morepreferred, and is commercially obtainable for example under the nameRheothik®11-80.

Preferred nonionogenic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylicacid esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers andvinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers andin particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers including sulfonicacid groups. Such a polymer is present in the commercial productSepigel®305 from SEPPIC.

Anionic homopolymers which are likewise preferred are uncrosslinked andcrosslinked polyacrylic acids. In this case, allyl ethers ofpentaerythritol, of sucrose and of propylene may be preferredcrosslinking agents. Such compounds are commercially obtainable forexample under the trademark Carbopol®.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, in particularthose comprising crosslinks, are also color-preserving polymers. Amaleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer crosslinked with 1,9-decadieneis commercially obtainable under the name Stabileze® QM. The anionicpolymers are present in the agents according to the invention preferablyin quantities of from 0.05 to 10 wt. %, relative to the total agent.Quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt. % are more preferred.

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention mayinclude nonionogenic polymers.

Suitable nonionogenic polymers are for example:

-   -   vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl ester copolymers, as are distributed for        example under the tradename Luviskol® (BASF). Luviskol® VA 64        and Luviskol® VA 73, in each case vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate        copolymers, are likewise preferred nonionic polymers.    -   cellulose ethers, such as hydroxypropylcellulose,        hydroxyethylcellulose and methylhydroxypropylcellulose, as are        distributed for example under the tradenames Culminal® and        Benecel® (AQUALON) and Natrosol® grades (Hercules).    -   starch and the derivatives thereof, in particular starch ethers,        for example Structure® XL (National Starch), a multifunctional,        salt-tolerant starch;    -   shellac    -   polyvinylpyrrolidones, as are distributed for example under the        tradename Luviskol® (BASF).

The nonionic polymers are present in the compositions according to theinvention preferably in quantities of from 0.05 to 10 wt. %, relative tothe total agent. Quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt. % are more preferred.

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention shouldadditionally include at least one UV light protection filter. UVBfilters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble substanceswhich may be mentioned are, for example:

-   -   3-benzylidenecamphor, for example        3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor;    -   4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably        4-(dimethylamino)benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester,        4-(dimethylamino)benzoic acid 2-octyl ester and        4-(dimethylamino)benzoic acid amyl ester;    -   esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid        2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester,        4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamic        acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene);    -   esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl        ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid        homomenthyl ester;    -   derivatives of benzophenone, preferably        2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,        2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone,        2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;    -   esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic        acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;    -   triazine derivatives, such as for example        2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine        and octyl triazone.    -   propane-1,3-diones, such as for example        1-(4-tert.-butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione;        Water-soluble substances which may be considered are:    -   2-phenylbenzimidazole 5-sulfonic acid and the alkali and        alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium        and glucammonium salts thereof;    -   sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably        2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and the salts        thereof;    -   sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor, such as for        example 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzenesulfonic acid and        2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)sulfonic acid and the salts        thereof.

Typical UVA filters which may be considered are in particularderivatives of benzoylmethane, such as for example1-(4′-tert.-butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione or1-phenyl-3-(4′-isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione. The UVA and UVBfilters may, of course, also be used in mixtures. In addition to thestated soluble substances, insoluble pigments may also be considered forthis purpose, in particular finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, suchas for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, ferric oxide, aluminumoxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talcum), barium sulfateand zinc stearate. The particles should here have an average diameter ofless than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particularbetween 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but suchparticles having a shape which is ellipsoidal or differs in another wayfrom spherical may also be used.

The cosmetic agents may moreover include further active substances,auxiliary substances and additives, such as for example

-   -   structuring agents such as maleic acid and lactic acid,    -   swelling agents such as urea, allantoin, carbonates or        hydantoin,    -   dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,    -   dyes for coloring the agent,    -   antidandruff active substances such as piroctone olamine, zinc        omadine and climbazole,    -   complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and        phosphonic acids,    -   opacifiers such as latex, styrene/PVP and styrene/acrylamide        copolymers    -   pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate        as well as PEG-3 distearate,    -   pigments,    -   stabilizers for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents,    -   propellants such as propane/butane mixtures, N₂O, dimethyl        ether, CO₂ and air,    -   antioxidants,    -   perfume oils, scents and odorants.

With regard to further optional components and the quantities of thesecomponents used, reference is explicitly made to the relevant handbooksknown to a person skilled in the art.

The invention therefore secondly provides a method for hair treatment,in which the hair treatment agent according to claim 1 is applied ontothe hair and, after a period of exposure, rinsed out of the hair.

The period of exposure preferably amounts to a few seconds to 100minutes, more preferably to 1 to 50 minutes and particularly preferablyto 1 to 30 minutes.

A method in which the cosmetic agent according to claim 1 is appliedonto the hair and remains there is furthermore according to theinvention. According to the invention, “remain on the hair” is taken tomean that the agent is not rinsed back out of the hair immediately afterthe use of thereof. Instead, the agent remains on the hair in this casefor more than 100 minutes up to until the next time the hair is washed.

The following examples are intended to explain the subject matter of thepresent invention but without limiting it.

EXAMPLES

Unless otherwise stated, all quantities are stated in parts by weight.The following formulations were prepared using known production methods.

Hair conditioner:

S1 S2 S3 S4 S5 S6 Stenol ® 1618 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Genamin ® KDMP2.0 — 2.0 — — — Cetrimonium chloride — — — — 1.0 — Rheocare ® Ultragel2.0 — — — — — Dehyquart ® L80 0.5 — — 0.5 — — Polyquatemium-77 0.5 — —0.5 — — Silcare ® SEA 0.5 — 0.5 — — Polyquaternium-71 0.5 — 0.5 — —Terraquat ® BD — 3.0 0.5 — 3.0 1.0 Dow Corning ® 949 — — — 0.5 — —Stearyldimoniumhydroxypropyl 0.5 0.5 0.5 LaurylglucosideBis-Ethyl(isostearylimidazoline) 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 IsostearamidePanthenol 0.5 0.5 0.3 0.5 0.2 0.2 Isopropyl myristate 0.4 — — — — DC ®200, 60,000 cSt 0.3 — 0.2 — — — Dicaprylyl Carbonate 0.3 — 0.3 0.3 — —Lactic acid 0.1 — — — 0.2 0.5 Citric acid — — — 0.3 — — Vanillic acid0.2 0.2 — 0.2 — — Mandelic acid — — 0.3 0.2 0.3 — Methylparaben 0.2 0.20.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Perfume 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.40.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

The pH value of all formulations was adjusted to 2 to 4.

Hair mask:

K1 K2 K3 K4 K5 K6 Stenol ® 1618 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 Quartamin ® BTC131 1.5 — 0.8 1.0 — — Crodazosoft ® DBQ 1.5 — — 1.5 — — RheocaretUltragel 3.0 — — — — — Dehyquart ® L80 0.5 — — 0.5 — — Dehyquart ® F 75— — — — 1.0 — Polyquaternium-77 0.5 — — 0.5 — — Silcare ® SEA 0.5 0.50.5 — — — Polyquatemium-71 0.5 — 0.5 — Tenaquat ® BD — 4.5 0.5 1.5 4.51.5 Dow Corning ® 949 — — — 0.5 — — Stearyldimoniumhydroxypropyl 0.5 0.50.5 Laurylglucoside Bis-Ethyl(isostearylimidazoline) 1.0 1.5 4.0 3.0 1.51.5 Isostearamide Lactic acid 0.5 — — — 2.0 — Citric acid — — — 0.3 —3.0 Vanillic acid 2.0 2.0 — 0.5 — — Mandelic acid — — 0.3 2.0 0.3 —Isopropyl myristate 0.4 — 0.4 — — — Panthenol 0.5 0.5 0.8 0.5 0.5 0.5DC ® 200, 60,000cSt 0.3 — 0.2 — — — Cetiol ® C5 1.0 — 0.3 0.3 — —Dicaprylyl Carbonate 0.3 — 0.3 0.3 — — Methylparaben 0.2 — 0.2 0.2 0.20.2 Perfume 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.40.4 Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

The pH value of all formulations was adjusted to 2 to 4.

Hair shampoo:

HS1 HS2 HS3 HS4 HS5 Ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (2- 20.0  20.0  9.0 —— EO) Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (2-EO) — — — 9.0 9.0 Terraquat ® BD2.0 2.0 — — — Ammonium lauryl sulfate (30%) 20.0  20.0  — — —Cocamidopropyl Betaine 7.0 7.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Plantacare ® 818 UP — — 6.06.0 6.0 Sodium Benzoate 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Citric Acid or Lactic Acidor a 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 mixture of both Thickening agent 1.0 2.0 0.52.5 1.0 Polyquaternium-77 0.5 — — 0.5 — Silcare ® SEA 0.5 — 0.5 — 0.3Cosmedia ® GuarC261 — — — 0.4 — Polyquaternium-71 0.5 — 0.5 — 0.1Polyquaternium-74 — — 0.3 — 0.2 Dow Corning ® 949 — — — 0.5 —Stearyldimoniumhydroxypropyl 0.5 — 0.5 0.5 0.5 LaurylglucosideBis-Ethyl(isostearylimidazoline) 2.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 1.0 IsostearamideMandelic acid — — 0.3 2.0 0.3 Isopropyl myristate 0.4 — 0.4 — —Panthenol 0.5 0.5 0.8 0.5 0.5 DC ® 200, 60,000 cSt 0.3 — 0.2 — —Cetiol ® C5 1.0 — 0.3 0.3 — Dicaprylyl Carbonate 0.3 — 0.3 0.3 — Perfume0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Water ad ad ad adad 100 100 100 100 100

The pH value of all the formulations was adjusted to 4.5 to 5.8. Thethickeners used may be any thickeners or thickener systems known to aperson skilled in the art in surfactant systems. For example, celluloseethers, xanthan gums, hydroxyethylcelluloses, Laureth-2 and Laureth-3,and for example the products known by the trade names Antil® or Crothix®are in each case used individually or in mixtures with one another inthe above-stated formulations.

While at least one exemplary embodiment has been presented in theforegoing detailed description of the invention, it should beappreciated that a vast number of variations exist. It should also beappreciated that the exemplary embodiment or exemplary embodiments areonly examples, and are not intended to limit the scope, applicability,or configuration of the invention in any way. Rather, the foregoingdetailed description will provide those skilled in the art with aconvenient road map for implementing an exemplary embodiment of theinvention, it being understood that various changes may be made in thefunction and arrangement of elements described in an exemplaryembodiment without departing from the scope of the invention as setforth in the appended claims and their legal equivalents.

What is claimed is:
 1. A hair treatment agent including, relative to theweight thereof, a) 0.01 to 15 wt. % of a fatty acid amide according toformula (I)

in which R¹, R² and R³ mutually independently denote a linear branchedor unbranched C₆ to C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, and n and m mutuallyindependently denote integers from 1 to 10, and b) 0.01 to 15.0 wt. % ofat least one hydroxycarboxylic acid.
 2. The hair treatment agentaccording to claim 1, further including at least one quaternary ammoniumcompound in a total quantity of 0.1 to 15.0 wt. % selected from thegroup consisting of cationic surfactants of formula (Tkat1)

in which R¹, R², R³ and R⁴ in each case mutually independently denotehydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated,branched or unbranched alkyl residue with a chain length of 8 to 30carbon atoms, which may optionally be substituted with one or morehydroxyl groups, and A denotes a physiologically acceptable anion,esterquats, at least one compound of general formula (bI)

in which n and m mutually independently denote integers between 5 and40, providing that n+m≧38, a and b mutually independently denoteintegers between 1 and 10 and optionally the equation a+2≧b≧a-2 applies,R and R′ are mutually independently selected from —H and —CH3, such thateither PEG or PPG diesterquats are used, X⁻ is a physiologicallyacceptable anion, at least one quaternary imidazoline of formula (bIII),

in which the residues R mutually independently in each case denote asaturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon residue with achain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A denotes a physiologicallyacceptable anion, poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium) compounds,Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72, cationizedhoney, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and the copolymersthereof with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid,copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives ofdialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate,vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, quaternizedpolyvinyl alcohol, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-7,Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18,Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-69, Polyquaternium-74, a polymericalkyl oligoglucoside of formula

in which R denotes a linear or branched C₆ to C₃₀ alkyl or aklenylresidue, R² denotes a linear or branched C₆ to C₃₀ alkyl or alkenylresidue, and A⁻ denotes a physiologically acceptable anion, anoligomeric alkyl o ligoglucoside of formula

in which R¹ denotes a linear or branched C₆ to C₃₀ alkyl or alkenylresidue, R² denotes a linear or branched C₆ to C₃₀ alkyl or alkenylresidue, and A⁻ denotes a physiologically acceptable anion, andPolyquaternium-71.
 3. The hair treatment agent according to claim 1,further including at least one silicone compound.
 4. The hair treatmentagent according to claim 3, characterized in that the silicone compoundis selected from amino-functional silicones.
 5. The hair treatment agentaccording to claim 1, further including carnitine.
 6. The hair treatmentagent according to claim 1, further including a purine.
 7. The hairtreatment agent according to claim 1, further including ectoine.
 8. Thehair treatment agent according to claim 1, further including at leastone ubiquinone.
 9. A method for treating keratinic fibers, including:applying the hair treatment agent according to claim 1 onto thekeratinic fibers and, after a period of exposure of a few seconds up to45 minutes, rinsing out the hair treatment agent.